Haider ackermann gay

Text by
Pedro Vasconcelos

Posted

Hours before Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford debut, I edged myself with his interview on Bella Freud’s Fashion Neurosis. And while I’m not really one for it—I like the scenic ride, but I have to feel like the car is moving—it did the trick. During the hour I spent listening to Ackermann ramble about his life, I learned two things. One: If I ever crave to hook up with him, I’ll have to let leave of my love for buttons (watch this space for a Depop account exclusively for my buttoned pieces). And two: the show I was about to see was not going to align with my admittedly huge expectations. I’d been dreaming of what his debut would watch like ever since it was announced. Besides being a massive Ackermann fan, I’ve also started an obsessive collection of Tom Ford-era Gucci speedos. Point being: my expectations were high.

&#;Ackermann is after something different,

It’s always interesting to me to see how the semiotics of clothing plan changes over time. About ten years ago, Haider Ackermann helped popularize this hoodie silhouette: cropped body, elongated sleeves, and dropped shoulder seams. It was VERY oversized.

Ackermann is a Columbian-born gay designer who was adopted by French parents when he was a child. Although he’s not very outspoken on political issues, his shows have been described as gender-fluid.

For example, in , he marched models down the runway in teams of two and three to show how men and women could wear his clothes, as they were cut in similar silhouettes. This is a write-up from Vogue at the time:

On Twitter, gendered fashion is often coded in cartoony terms: men in power suits and women in sundresses. But in reality, things are more nuanced. Cut, dye, and fabric can appear into play. Many will remember that cropped hoodies used to be considered a feminine silhouette.

To perceive the change, we should go back to Coming off the success of his album MBDTF, Kanye wanted to make strides in the fashion w

Your favourite designer’s favourite designer, Haider Ackermann has spent the last 20 years doing exactly as he wishes. A blessing, not a curse, this ethics has cemented his name into fashion’s hall of fame, with his striking oeuvre spanning everything from flesh-flashing satins to exquisite tailoring. Along the way, he’s helmed Berluti, styled and hung out with Hollywood heroes Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet, and broken the internet on numerous occasions.

It’s been a ride, but never has the Colombian-French maverick said ‘yes’ to anything he wasn’t sure on. The creative directorship of Maison Margiela? No thanks. Haider didn’t feel he could replace his idol, Martin. Succeeding Karl at Chanel? He didn’t tell no as such, but his modest response to the Kaiser’s proposition was a little sluggish off the mark. 

But that’s Haider for you, a bespectacled mastermind that marches to the thrash of his possess drum, ditching trends in an industry defined by them. Throughout his serve , sensuality, déshabille and exacting cuts contain remained the maestro’s perennial codes, regardless of t

Short Profile

Name: Haider Ackermann
DOB: 29 March
Place of birth: Bogota, Colombia
Occupation: Fashion designer

Haider, as a designer, does your creativity come from happiness or darkness?

My creativity used to come from a dark place… When you are young, you are very tormented and very insecure. I never did analyze, I never went to see a shrink and deal with any of that. I should have, but I never did. I’m not all about analyzing. I don't like to delve into things. You don't want to sound enjoy the artist that just goes through pain to be able to yield, but I used to be quite dark — trust me. I used to be quite dark.

And that changed?

I try to be more optimistic and to move forwards. And now there's a tiny bit more confidence. Now my creativity comes from happiness. It's nice to dream and build up your own story, you know, I like to search for things and have some fantasy. Even when you're in a museum or you’re visiting another country, you contain guides who tell you explain everything… I don't need that. I favor to look at a painting and add my own story about it, there's